Today we will be peeking through the May 1996 issue which is graced with one of my absolute favorite fashion editorial ever titled "When Romance Was In Fashion" (a title I borrowed for a recent newsletter tagline if you recognize it from our mailing list). 

This editorial featured the private collection of antique clothing and treasures of Lesley Balazs who amassed an extensive collection of antique clothing and costumes that she would put on display once a year to benefit the Preservation Resource Center of New Orleans. 

The photos were shot on film by Toshi Otsuki whose photographs for vintage Victoria are amongst my favorites and I turn to them for inspiration time and time again for my own shop. 

Other articles in the May 1996 Victoria issue include an ode to peonies, crafting your own potpourri, sunporch living, and of course an homage to mothers.  

Interested in collecting vintage Victoria magazines? I sourced most of mine through eBay, Etsy, and scouring local antique shops. I was also quite fortunate once that a friend who worked at an antique shop gave me a box full of Victoria magazines doubling my collection in one go!

I am looking forward to February's first blooms of crocuses, snowdrops, camelias, hellebores, wild narcissis, daffodils, and the intoxicating sweet scent of daphne... 

A few years ago, I was absolutely delighted to come across the work of British illustrator Kate Greenaway  who had a thriving illustration business during the Victorian Era and who mostly became known for depicting her subjects in early 18th century garments. A Victorian gal inspired by the likes of Jane Eyre, or rather Regency style! Isn't that just delightful?!?

I love coming across artists in history who were very clearly inspired by another era other than their own. Perhaps because I always look to the past for inspiration that I feel such a kinship to these artists. What I adore about Kate Greenaway's work is that while she was inspired by a different era, she didn't try to replicate it exactly and instead took the notes of inspiration and made them entirely her own. 

I adore her use of color and her color palettes I am forever inspired by. I adore how she illustrates flowers and especially the tiny little blossoms she illustrates into frames around her subject and also the way the garments seem to appear as if her subjects were just caught in a brisk Spring or Autumn wind. Her work has hints of art nouveau, but only just a bit which I adore. Sometimes too much art nouveau can be a bit too gaudy, for me personally anyway. 

A Special Talent in... Dainty Colours

Kate Greenaway first got her start illustrating greeting cards! During the Victorian era, greeting cards became a HUGE industry and Kate's freelance work with Marcus Ward & Co, a prominent publishing company known for illustrated books and greeting cards, were very well received and it was said that “her special talent was in the direction of costume figures and dainty colours...” and some of her valentine's day card illustrations would sell 25,000 copies in a week! Can you imagine selling 25,000 copies of your illustrations every week? 

Nostalgia for the Country

Kate lived in London and as you can imagine, Victorian era London was noisy, busy, and dirty. Her father was a draughtsman and received a large new commission to work on engravings for a new edition of The Pickwick Papers, a novel by Charles Dickens. He sent Kate and her mother to live in the countryside (with Dear Ole Mum's family) while Dear Ole Dad stayed in London to work in solitude. Sadly, the company that had hired Kate's father went bankrupt and so the family became nearly penniless. However the time spent in the countryside was formidable for Kate's young years and she would often recall such fond memories of the countryside as "...she felt it to be her real home, a country of the mind that she could always reimagine." (I feel ya Kate!)

Influence on Fashion

Kate's mother was a seamstress and after the engraving commission fiasco, she opened up a dress and millinery shop in Islington and the family lived above it (Kate was an only child). There was a little garden in the back where Kate could often be found spending hours admiring and studying all the flowers and having little moments of solitude. Le sigh, this sounds like a dream to me, I want to live above my shop and have a garden in the back! Also, Dear ghost of Kate Greenaway, you are an AV Girl through and through if there ever was one!

Perhaps it was because Kate's mother was a seamstress that she paid such close attention to the details of the garments her subjects wore. Her decision to depict children and adults in Regency inspired clothing really influenced the fashion of her time and mothers (in higher society circles) started to dress their children in "Kate Greenaway Fashions" and even the famed Liberty of London came out with a collection inspired by Miss Greenway.

I mean, how MODERN does that sound? An illustrator influences fashion trends and does a collaboration with a hugely known brand? Sounds a lot like what's happening in our current times. Ahhh, I adore coming across stories and tidbits of history like these because it reminds me we are not so different so apart from one another even in the threads of time. 

Further Reading

If you would like to find out much more about Victorian illustrator Kate Greenaway, do visit Illustration History / Kate Greenaway and the International League of Antiquarian Booksellers. I had so much fun researching Kate and spending hours pouring over her illustrations many of which are now part of the Public Domain, so a quick and simple search will afford you many more examples of her work!

- F I N -

le MUSES articles feature inspiring women from history and modern day who capture the essence of mypiggywiggy's favorite quote, "Live the life you always imagined" (Thoreau). We love to research and share information about women who have paved the way to living truest to oneself... independent, creative, driven, daring, unconventional, and timelessly beautiful.

The first issue of Victoria I believe was a Spring/Summer issue that came out in 1987. These early editions have been quite hard for me to track down and come by, but I'm not really in a rush to complete my collection. 

I love flipping through them month after month, year after year, absorbing all the beauty and inspiration. Some of it makes me laugh because it's just a little "too extra" but I still appreciate the sentiment so much because who doesn't want to aspire to be a little too extra once in awhile?

The December 1988 issue of Victoria features one of my most favorite editorials ever, "Portraiture In The Style of Sargent" photographed by Starr Ockenga and the photos are so exquisite and beautiful as if it's an actual photo of the models in John Singer Sargent's studio illuminated with their own inner lights.

...and here is a photo of yours truly in a very Victoria inspired ensemble from when I shot these earlier this week. 

In the meantime I have been returning to searching and finding inspiration for the retail shop when we do reopen to full capacity again and with a slightly different model and concept. It all remains to be seen and at the moment the best thing I can do is just focus on the present and take it day by day, week by week. 

I was recently perusing through my collection of vintage Victoria magazines and came across one of the most beautiful shops I have ever seen grace the pages of this magazine. I remember coming across these photos of Bell'occhio in San Francisco in the September 1990 issue when I was in my dreaming phase last summer for the retail shop. It was these photos that convinced me I needed a Victorian tiered garden stand! 

I was very happy to discover that this shop STILL exists, in the same location in San Francisco and with one of the same original owners! Bell'occhio, which means "an eye for the beautiful" and I am so very excited to be able to visit this beautiful treasure trove on my next trip to the city by the bay.

Credits: All images were photographed from the September 1990 issue of Victoria magazine. Original photos were shot my Michael Skott. 

If you would like to see additional photos of this beautiful shop, this 2015 blog post on SF Girl By Bay is really lovely and you can see the shop, while very different in a lot of ways, is still the same as the photos from the 90s full of whimsy and wonder. 

This is probably one of my favorite June covers, though the issue itself isn't my most favorite, but there is plenty inside to admire. A few things are a little "too frou frou" for my more simple country sensibilities, so I've just snapped my favorite bits. This particular June issue has many features relating to weddings, so if you would like some vintage inspiration for your upcoming nuptials, I do recommend seeking out this issue!

If you are interested in collecting issues of vintage Victoria (I only collect the issues that Nancy Lindemeyer was the editor in chief) you can check Etsy, Ebay, or your local antique shops! 

As always, these are just my favorite parts of the issue, there are several stories and features not shown here (a story on hooked rugs, floral shoe illustrations, objects with a butterfly motif...). The features I am showing are those near and dear to my heart like the photos of "Wild Child", a dreamlike floral and gift shop in Rhode Island. Sadly I never quite know if any of these businesses are still in business that are featured in these 20 year old issues... but I like to dream they are and they still look exactly as they are depicted in the pages of Victoria.

The ensemble above is one of my all time favorites ever featured in Victoria. I would 100% wear this now and I dare to dream of finding pieces like these to grace the mypiggywiggy shop!

Curious about collecting your own back issues? I found some of them on eBay and Etsy but mostly I found them at different antique malls and I was lucky enough once to have a friend give me a box of issues many of which I was still missing!

Who was this woman!? And how could I become more like her?

These are photos from the delightful book "Tasha Tudor's Garden" with text by Tovah Martin and absolutely exquisite photos by Richard W. Brown. The book was first published in 1994 by Houghton Mifflin Company. I found a copy of this book at a local antique shop and sadly it does not have the cover. 

It was very difficult for me to narrow down which photos from the book I wanted to share as the entire book is filled with such gorgeous imagery that I found myself wishing beyond hope that I could insert myself into the pages and be among Tasha's garden that is lost in time.

The book is divided into monthly/seasonal sections and describes all the ways Tasha prepares and works her garden and the different blooms and flowers that grow in her secluded south Vermont property. Throughout the book are little quips and quotes from Tasha which reveals to the reader how proud Tasha is of her garden and how immodest she is about the different rare varieties her garden boasts. You will also find many of Tasha's floral illustrations peppered throughout the book featuring flowers from her garden.

Coming from a generational family of gardeners, it is in Tasha's blood to have such a golden green thumb and throughout the book you are told the great lengths Tasha has gone through to procure rare seeds and flowers.

“I enjoy solitude. It's probably selfish, but why bother about it. Life is much too important, as Oscar Wilde said, to be taken seriously. I feel so sorry for those mothers who are devastated by loneliness when their children fly the coop and don't want to live at home anymore. They feel lost, but look what exciting things can be done. Life isn't long enough to do all you could accomplish. And what a privilege to be alive. In spite of all the pollutions and horrors, how beautiful this world is. Supposing you only saw the stars once every year. Think what you would think. The wonder of it!” - Tasha Tudor

The scenes in the poppy fields are some of my favorite cinematic scenes ever. It's so beautiful. I love how all the characters are just immersed in the tall grass chatting about life, past loves, possibilities for the future. It's so idyllic and simple.

I also love how they dressed Maggie Smith and Judi Dench in opposing colors to contrast with the green and pops of red poppies. 

These scenes are the kind of moments I want in my life... nothing extravagant. Just a basket full of simple fare, a linen jacket, some sunshine, a straw hat... and of course one of the best first kiss scenes in the entire world according to yours truly. Oh, you really must watch the movie to see how it all plays out!

“This desire to govern a woman—it lies very deep, and men and women must fight it together.... But I do love you surely in a better way than he does." He thought. "Yes—really in a better way. I want you to have your own thoughts even when I hold you in my arms.”

This is one of my all time favorite hairstyles in a film ever and the outfit of course you can see how much it influences mypiggywiggy. I am mostly sharing bits of the movie I find the most appealing, there are several scenes in Italy and England so don't think the entire film is just shot outdoors! 

 There are several scenes that take place once the characters are back in England and these scenes make me wish for wicker furniture... 

Image Sources: Screengrabs / Tumblr

Perhaps you're new around these parts, so let me introduce you to one of my loves. Vintage Victoria magazine! I first found out about this magazine maybe 6 years ago when I cam across a Tumblr post actually making fun of the magazine. 

As I read through the spoofs I thought "Wait, WHAT is this magazine? How do I get this?!"

It turns out Victoria Magazine is still going, you can still subscribe to it and have it sent to you in the mail.

However, my heart faithfully belongs to the vintage issues when the original editor Nancy Lindemeyer was at the helm. The 1980s and the 1990s issues. Over the years I have started collecting all of the back issues and right now my collection is 80% complete, maybe 85%, I have a spreadsheet of the issues I'm missing. So every once in awhile, when I get the chance, I will start sharing monthly issues with you and highlighting my favorite parts from my collection of vintage Victoria magazines.

When I first came across these photos for the story "On The First Day of Spring" my heart just swooned. I love the floral dress that the model is wearing, I adore her hair and the way she resembles Jane Birkin a bit...a very soft romantic Jane Birkin. You can channel this outfit with our Parlez-Vous Fleurs vintage inspired ditsy floral dress! Even the peachy pink flowers are a similar tone!

Photographs by Toshi Otsuki.

 I hope you enjoyed these glimpses into vintage Victoria magazine! The issue has so much more in it, but I just wanted to share my favorite bits! 

Curious about collecting your own back issues? I found some of them on eBay and Etsy but mostly I found them at different antique malls. A friend of mine gave me an entire box of about 30 issues. I have several doubles and triples now so perhaps I'll part with my copies... but probably not, lol.

Below are some beautiful paintings mostly from the 19th century of women florists or just women with flowers. As Christian Dior said, "After women, flowers are the most divine creations..." 

Both paintings above are by French painter Victor Gabriel Gilbert who loved to paint market scenes and everyday life in Paris. 

The Language of Flowers in the Victorian Era

Summer Night, Riverside

In the wild soft summer darkness

How many and many a night we two together

Sat in the park and watched the Hudson

Wearing her lights like golden spangles

Glinting on black satin.

The rail along the curving pathway

Was low in a happy place to let us cross,

And down the hill a tree that dripped with bloom

Sheltered us,

While your kisses and the flowers,

Falling, falling,

Tangled in my hair....

The frail white stars moved slowly over the sky.

And now, far off

In the fragrant darkness

The tree is tremulous again with bloom

For June comes back.

To-night what girl

Dreamily before her mirror shakes from her hair

This year's blossoms, clinging to its coils?

- Sara Teasdale

All of the possibilities of summer lay spread out before us, testing our ability to make time for everything. At times, summers have slipped by me, seamlessly merging into autumn before I have a chance to check everything off my to-do list. However, this summer, I truly hope that you are able to embrace the ancient rhythms of this season and create a balance that allows for you to slow down and observe the passing sun soaked days. Who knows, you may even be inspired to write your own poem. 

- Bises,
Nora

Bernardo Bertolucci's film "Stealing Beauty" is beautifully evocative. It is a very pretty film about a very pretty girl surrounded by a very pretty landscape. So, obviously, this film is one of our top movies to watch when we want something lovely to swoon over and feel like escaping. 

The scenes are so sensual. You can practically feel the sun on your own skin, you can hear the echo of footsteps and laughter in the ancient fresco painted walls, you can taste the cherries, smell the wildflowers... 

Storywise, and I'm no film critic, it's a bit lackluster. Characters are not really fully developed and often times I found myself wondering "Why do I care about these people?" 

But really, this movie isn't about that, for me anyway. It's just SO PRETTY to look at. If this movie pulls at your aesthetic heartstrings at all, then you know you're an AV Girl! Floral dresses, romantic carefree hairstyles, walks through meadows, picking wildflowers, ballet flats... I mean come on!